garyrbeck
05-22-2004, 02:46 AM
Puerto_Vallarta_Gay_Travel
Reporting from Cyber Smoothie, owned by Leo, Rodolfo Gomez 111, next
to Hotel San Marino:
Landed to Diana's Tours VIP Airport Greet [lesbetravelling@hotmail.com $35 one way to OldTown, included taxi going through town, mineral water, pointing out different places, exchanging pesos at a very good cambio], whisked into the A/C VIP Lounge. Got some pesos to tide over at rate of 11.05/$US, but the banks are supposed to be as high as 11.35, and then Diana took us off to La Palapa.
Checked in and rested a bit. Weather is marvelous, not too hot, not too humid. Just had no sleep the night before! Playa is still very busy with locals for the Holiday weekend which just passes...Mexican Labor Day.
Just had to have a refreshing swim in the rooftop pool as the pelicanos soared over head heading home for the night. Plenty of space to lay out in the sun or the shade.
Dined at El Brujo for our first meal. Had the molcejete [60p] filled with cheese [queso] in the green [verde] sauce, piping hot. Spread on your choice of corn or flour tortillas, freshly made by hand. We shared three entrees of stuffed fish [huachinango] with shrimp, topped with a delicate flavorful white sauce and cheese [80p]; shrimp with a chili bacon sauce and guacamole and rice; fresh fish with a
verde sauce, duplication! Diana says they have the best priced premium booze [45p] drinks. Agua mineral was fine with me.
Went off and check Villa Claudia, third floor, open air, very nice with a wonderful view. Stopped in Garbo's for a cool one at 10:30pm. Herman, the owner, was very gracious and friendly. He deserves fine clientele. Amiga had her usual Fantasia champagne cocktail. Kit Kat Club was jumping more outside than in. Home for a turn in early at 12:45am.
Met a friend and went to Asadero's for Cesar's all-you-can-eat meal, but he is closed Monday! So, carnivores prevailed and we rounded the corner to Brasil and once again got so stuffed we could hardly move. They serve 15, count them, 15 meats from skewers along with salads and veggies, even a carrot soup this time, for 150p men, 130p women [who eat less, Huh?] Had a good conga grande [fruit juice mixture] and decided the rib eye was everyone's favorite cut, so had a wee slice more! The A/C glass-enclosed room for nonsmokers is quite pleasant. Learned that the tree growing inside and up through the roof is a mango. Beautiful how they constructed the restaurant incorporating the old trees, instead of cutting them down. Service and manager were attentive.
Full moon in Scorpio lit the night sky over the Bahia even brighter than the noon day sun. It was spectacular, reflecting off the shimmering silver loud-crashing waves. Needing a full night's sleep, took a warm bath for sore back muscles and slept like a baby, readying for manana.
We got up and moved to El Dorado, a local hangout for years. After Kenna, the restaurant remodeled the gutted area and is very attractive but more expensive now. Met up with three newbies to Vallarta from NYC. So far they are having a blast,
exploring...remember the first time? Mine was staying at Molino de Agua amidst the palms, macaws and monkeys in cages back then. Did I mention it has been sold and is going to be demolished for condo towers? Boo Hiss. Stayed under a palapa at the Green Chairs [Beach Club] and had chicken quesadillas [60p] since they had no sushi...manana! Was fine if I can ever get over their serving in airline plasticware with snap lids. Place is packed, for this part of the season. Weather is warm to hot, but glazed with a wonderful Bay breeze. Only gets rather hot when hiking uphill away from the Bay. And no places have lines! Bank [Banorte] by PV Cafe offered pesos at 11.23 per USD.
Went over to Karpathos/Chianti and had their fine appetizer combo platter, plenty for the five of us, shared a couple pastas, moussaka, roast lamb [99p], chicken soulvaki. Pretty good. Only ones there.
Checked out a little night life but way too early [11pm] for activity. Even Andele's was nearly empty! Now that's bad. But the donkey was ready for its entrance. Hmmm.
Some were up and off on Diana's cruise, every Thursday, 65 USD but all-you-can-eat and drink, first to the north, then down to the south for swimming and snorkeling. A full day, so please bring some high number lotion and a hat or visor! I ate at [new ownership] Tasca de Mama Dolores. Had taco salad [48p] full of all the usual goodies. They also have hamburgers, sandwiches, breakfast, outdoor cafe seating. Laid back and easy, on Olas Altas. Had to stop at Pie in the Sky for a butter pecan ice cream [Blue Bell] so that my waist will not shrink away to absolutely nothing!
We had the two live chats here and set off for Ernesto's for their Thursday night all-you-can-eat pork rib special [how can one stay thin here? Or lose weight, I should say...jog 20 miles per day?]. Leo had the pollo al la naranja, tender chicken a light brown orange sauce, delightful. We shared one of the all-time best tortilla soups, medium bowl for 50p, enough starter for three! Down home and funky may describe this dirt floor spot with white plastic chairs. Stayed on at El Dorado for lodging, a fav of many regular visitors. Great staff, OT/SS location, rooms, views, restaurant downstairs with nightly musica.
I bussed to Sam's Club to meet a pal and the two of us checked out her Paradise Village condo and headed north to Bucerias. Such a cool town with fine beach and eateries. Sandria's is rather Californian Continental Creative [all housemade]
decorated with her artwork. Since my companion had lunch there the day before, we checked Mark's, open nightly, International upscale menu and spot, and then decided on Meson Bay for an authentic Mexican mainly seafood hangout right on the blue bay! What a day, with boats, pelicans, children playing in the sand, superb food and the best to me were the homemade really thin flour tortillas. A return spot for sure! Headed also for fun to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle and Punta Mita.
Later met up with a large Internet gathering at Cuatos y Cuetos on Playa Los Muertos for a sunset drink and we were off to Archie's Wok once again. D'Rachael was there performing softly on flute, harp and with vocal as we savored the fine cuisine of Thai, Chinese and Filipino. Cindy stopped by after her dinner, but the place is pretty much run in the front of the house by gorgeous daughter and in the kitchen chef son who returned after schooling in Guadalajara. For those who do not know, Archie was director John Huston's personal chef up until the latter's death and we lost Archie, too, so Cindy has maintained this top notch spot not to be missed. We are up to Saturday now.
Note: The Beach Club [Green Chairs] has live music on stage Sat. and Sun. 3:30 - 6pm during the summer, more in the high season. This is now called the Second Season. Also new NYPV is hopping in its 6th week and features dancing to techno music amid smashing bodies.
Got up at beautiful Hotel Mercurio and had their 'included' cafe, rolls, fruit, juice by the pool. Owner Paul, manager Carlos and later writer/photog Paco joined us for lots of chatting about new and old Vallarta. They have big plans for remodeling, so the next time you are there, expect some super changes and quite a few larger rooms! Their staff is so attentive and warm. Recommended.
Decided upon Cafe San Angel for a creative sandwich. Split a prosciutto bruschetta and a smoked salmon cream cheese on tender baguettes. Love sitting outside on the sidewalk people-watching, that is until a tour bus driver decided he could make the curve and wedged a side window against their awning support. Crash, splinter, Eeek! Took some pix just in case the owner had any problem with proof. Policia and insurance reps were there shortly and we returned to our lunch and then on our way.
La Palapa was having a Mexican Mother's Day on the 9th, so we joined their fine staff and families on the rooftop for dancing, drinks and grilled comida. Fiesta grande.
I had my fill of activity and needed a well-earned rest, so stayed in after we checked into Miguel's. Good view, all glass sliding doors, overhead fan, good shower. Felipe manages this fine location, very central, but watch out for those steps. Do a little gym-toning before a stay.
Fidel drove all of us down the coast, Highway 200, past Conchas Chinas, Costa Vida, Garza Blanca, Camino Real, past Mismaloya, to El Eden, site of The Predator movie filming, complete with a demolished helicopter. Canopy Tour is offered here, an option until I viewed just how high in the air those cables are! Ouch. Tell me all about it. Jungle atmosphere for lunch and river swimming on smooth rocks. Sought out the oft-mentioned La Chosa de Tono, Tree House, 16 year old operation with all the family employed cooking and serving. Check this spot out. No menu, so listen carefully and view the tray of selections. We shared quesadillas and then huachinango done two ways, one grilled and one whole, both with garlic butter and veggies, mashed potatoes [there they are again!], tortillas. Delicious! Had a great time there...one of those places you do not want to leave as the experience will end until the next time.
Next stop, Garza Blanca Villas, never been to before. We snagged a tiny 3 BR 3 BA two story penthouse condo with private pool and a small 180 degree view of Vallarta and all the Bahia de Banderas. Forced ourselves to watch another lousy sunset in Paradise. Sigh. Quite a spectacular property. Thanks, John. No restaurants within walking distance, so from the phone book, located one place offering delivery. Domino's Pizza. Argh, I said it. OK< it was not 1/2 bad and we were famished. There is always mañana.
After a grand night in the Garza Blanca villa, we said adios and had the taxi take us right into OldTown/SouthSide. My heart beat faster as I once again reunited with my full soul amidst the shops, people, cafes, familiar sights. We went right to Planeta Vegetariano, which has had wide mention on various message boards and been on my To Go List for a couple years. Up a number of steps on Iturbide from the Guadalupe Church in Centro, sits the charming cozy cafe with bright Mexican colorful art work everywhere. The breakfast buffet is 45 pesos, all-you-can-eat and the lunch and dinner are 65p, bargain in anyone's book.
There is a full array of fruits, salads, juices, vegetables and entrees, all made from only plants, so do not look for meat, fish or dairy. Wonderful herbs and spice blends are used in the kitchen. We ate our fill and talked with the manager for a long time.
Then, on to Playa Bonita, right next door to the Blue Chairs. We secured a beautiful 3BR, 3BA penthouse with a spiral staircase up to the roof with a small pool and sitting area for sunset viewing. Almost reachable by fingertips is the rooftop happy hour and pool of the neighbors. 360 degree view, but there were some swarming bees so we did not sit up there. 1000 sq ft common area with a huge wrap-around balcony. Great for three couples, or a group of friends who are not in the party mood, as most units are owner-occupied and there is little tolerance for noise. Guests are screened at the front desk.
Weather for May continued to be moderate with a constant breeze off the bay to cool down from the mid-80Fs. Not much in the way of clouds for impressive reflected sunsets, but the view was still breathtaking.
Pablo came over with his table for massages, using very strong hands for depth and relief. Reiki, Shiatzu, Swedish, Therapeutic, Reflexology, Manipulation. Start your vacation with a relaxing massage. He's great and very professional.
pablomassage@hotmail.com
223-1907
Hi Pablo, good work, fine man! Tell him Gary sent you.
All of us later headed out for Pitillal for dinner at The Asadero but it was Mexican Mother's Day and the zocolo was packed with every taco stand in town, crowds of families, and a loud speaker system. Decided to look elsewhere, but everything was closed. Ended up on the Malecón and almost ate at Paradise Burger [new ownership of Cheeseburger in Paradise, the spot who had a web cam until Kenna] but the steps were too much to handle for one of us so soon after the layers of steps at Garza Blanca, so we chose California Buffet, a Denny's type. Best choice was the pozole, very rich and homemade. They offer a ton of food and was only about 80p.
One in our party decided that steps and walking must be kept at a minimum and one ankle needed rest, so we had to forego a stopover at Casa Isabel with Brenda. I was going to go solo, but after some discussion, plans will be made upon my return this October.
Back to the PV Cafe on Olas Altas to get my Internet fix. Their summer offer is only 150p for 10 hours, so hard to beat that! Banks have dropped to 11.25-11.30p per USD. Sometimes there is a problem staying online and also the IPod wireless service is hit and miss, maybe depending upon how far you are to the antenna, but it is the wave of the future. Anybody want to buy me a laptop?
I went solo walking all around OldTown on Tuesday. Love that 24 hour Farmacia Guadalajara, with better prices for many prescriptions than the US. Wanted to eat at the middle taco stand adjacent to their parking lot, called the Little Ant [in Spanish] but they do not open until 4-5pm. So, I visited another small spot from my To Go List, Dianita's. Comida Corrida...learned something new, means Fast Food! Get this, for 40p you choose one of 10 entrees which come with a soup from a choice of three, rice, beans, warm tortillas and a pitcher of agua of the day. I opted for Lomo Chipotle [pork loin filets], Tortilla Soup and Horchata. How you can leave hungry, I do not know. Do not be surprised if another person or couple joins you at your table...just smile and say Hola!
Took a slow stroll through the World of Glass [Mundo de Cristal] and their sister World of Tile. What a place to pick up items for your casa or gifts for loved ones. They no longer 'fire' there, only in Tlaquepaque. Very beautiful...check it out if you have not already. Talavera and opaque colored glasses are my faves, at fair prices. They ship, too.
OK, relief is in sight. This is the final diary page to be shared. Ah, the latest trip had to come to an end but memories abound from it and will never be forgotten!
With two co-members here, we rendezvoused at Dasan's, whose owner is also a member here, but we had planned to go there beforehand as so many people had lofty praises for the spot. We shared a lot of items to get a good grasp of his Indian cuisine. Nan is needed always, a famous bread, with spicy dipping sauces. We shared curries of chicken and lamb, plentiful dishes of vegetables, some spicier than others. Mango lassi was the drink of choice by all, made with fruit so fresh it almost jumped from the glass. I could make a meal of the thick white smoothie alone! We missed Dasan, but his capable assistant led us through the menu and assisted in choices so that everyone had a part in the decisions. When you get that hanker, go and say Hi to Dasan and sample the fine food in a casual atmosphere. We all are computer nuts so went to the PV Cafe [open until 2am when we are literally kicked out!] and chatted about Puerto Vallarta, our lives and plans ahead. Time is flyyyyyyying!
My next day trip to the pool to burn off a few calories was interrupted by Rodrigo the masseur who was to chat about his business and need for some PR, when we decided he would give me an aromatherapy spiritual massage. He is a gentle old soul with a spirit dating to his ancestors and their methods of herbs, flowers, woods, spices and oils for detoxification and stress relief, restoring the harmony and balance. No email address yet, but call him at 22-33729, Angeluz Therapeutic Massage. Tell him Gary sent you.
After a long trek through Conchas Chinas and Alta Vista, Fidel and we stopped at a longtime taco stand named Brother-in-law [in Spanish] across from Cafe San Angel. It is family run and always maintains its quality and therefore their following. With Jamaica drink, the cost per person was around 30p. Exhausted from the long time out, I needed some time to rest and ready myself for the grand finale. But, soon we were off to a B & B called Hacienda Mosaica, Calle Milan 274, run by artist David Leonard. [www.haciendamosaica.com] One must see the place to believe it. Huge A/C rooms with baths and am breakfast, outdoor area with pool, sitting, fruit trees [mangoes are loaded right now] and paths from place to place. Plans are in the future for cooking classes and art studio work. It is fascinating, as is Blanca, the white Cockatoo.
Oh, I omitted a fine place we stopped at which was torn up a bit for a filming, named Villa Leonarda, Guerrero 414 Centro, run by owner Sergio Toledano. The apartments are being renovated. It sits on Rio Cuale in Gringo Gulch. He is the godson of 'one and only' Elizabeth Taylor and shared old photos of his first communion, sails on the
Burton's yacht, and parties with the Hollywood glitterati. He was well-familiar of my times staying nearby at Casa Juanita, at that time owned by Phil and Jane Ober, who shared Burton's pool, opposite Taylor's casa gifted by Burton called Casa Kimberley, part B & B, part museum open to the public, right by their famous lovers' bridge.
Last call...Cafe Bohemio, run by two guys from Palm Springs and San Francisco, CA. Chris and Sol. They have built their faithful clientele in a little over a year and I was one of their first diners. They had been gone back to the States for a visit, so when the doors opened, the pans flew, the people smiled and cried! We started with a Matzo Ball soup, followed by Cherry Cola ribs and coconut shrimp with spicy mango sauce. A decadent brownie and a flaming custard finished the long experience, under the trees, with the bay breezes gentle from a block away. Aah. Laptop shut down for the evening and a quiet lounging on the balcony/patio as the stars twinkled their farewells, temporary as they may be.
Gary
San Francisco, CA. and Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco
Am updating my restaurant guide. For free copy by email, write me. Any ??? about PV/my trips/experiences, write me anytime.
garyrbeck1@yahoo.com
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Puerto_Vallarta_Gay_Travel
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Puerto_Vallarta_OldTown_SouthSide
Reporting from Cyber Smoothie, owned by Leo, Rodolfo Gomez 111, next
to Hotel San Marino:
Landed to Diana's Tours VIP Airport Greet [lesbetravelling@hotmail.com $35 one way to OldTown, included taxi going through town, mineral water, pointing out different places, exchanging pesos at a very good cambio], whisked into the A/C VIP Lounge. Got some pesos to tide over at rate of 11.05/$US, but the banks are supposed to be as high as 11.35, and then Diana took us off to La Palapa.
Checked in and rested a bit. Weather is marvelous, not too hot, not too humid. Just had no sleep the night before! Playa is still very busy with locals for the Holiday weekend which just passes...Mexican Labor Day.
Just had to have a refreshing swim in the rooftop pool as the pelicanos soared over head heading home for the night. Plenty of space to lay out in the sun or the shade.
Dined at El Brujo for our first meal. Had the molcejete [60p] filled with cheese [queso] in the green [verde] sauce, piping hot. Spread on your choice of corn or flour tortillas, freshly made by hand. We shared three entrees of stuffed fish [huachinango] with shrimp, topped with a delicate flavorful white sauce and cheese [80p]; shrimp with a chili bacon sauce and guacamole and rice; fresh fish with a
verde sauce, duplication! Diana says they have the best priced premium booze [45p] drinks. Agua mineral was fine with me.
Went off and check Villa Claudia, third floor, open air, very nice with a wonderful view. Stopped in Garbo's for a cool one at 10:30pm. Herman, the owner, was very gracious and friendly. He deserves fine clientele. Amiga had her usual Fantasia champagne cocktail. Kit Kat Club was jumping more outside than in. Home for a turn in early at 12:45am.
Met a friend and went to Asadero's for Cesar's all-you-can-eat meal, but he is closed Monday! So, carnivores prevailed and we rounded the corner to Brasil and once again got so stuffed we could hardly move. They serve 15, count them, 15 meats from skewers along with salads and veggies, even a carrot soup this time, for 150p men, 130p women [who eat less, Huh?] Had a good conga grande [fruit juice mixture] and decided the rib eye was everyone's favorite cut, so had a wee slice more! The A/C glass-enclosed room for nonsmokers is quite pleasant. Learned that the tree growing inside and up through the roof is a mango. Beautiful how they constructed the restaurant incorporating the old trees, instead of cutting them down. Service and manager were attentive.
Full moon in Scorpio lit the night sky over the Bahia even brighter than the noon day sun. It was spectacular, reflecting off the shimmering silver loud-crashing waves. Needing a full night's sleep, took a warm bath for sore back muscles and slept like a baby, readying for manana.
We got up and moved to El Dorado, a local hangout for years. After Kenna, the restaurant remodeled the gutted area and is very attractive but more expensive now. Met up with three newbies to Vallarta from NYC. So far they are having a blast,
exploring...remember the first time? Mine was staying at Molino de Agua amidst the palms, macaws and monkeys in cages back then. Did I mention it has been sold and is going to be demolished for condo towers? Boo Hiss. Stayed under a palapa at the Green Chairs [Beach Club] and had chicken quesadillas [60p] since they had no sushi...manana! Was fine if I can ever get over their serving in airline plasticware with snap lids. Place is packed, for this part of the season. Weather is warm to hot, but glazed with a wonderful Bay breeze. Only gets rather hot when hiking uphill away from the Bay. And no places have lines! Bank [Banorte] by PV Cafe offered pesos at 11.23 per USD.
Went over to Karpathos/Chianti and had their fine appetizer combo platter, plenty for the five of us, shared a couple pastas, moussaka, roast lamb [99p], chicken soulvaki. Pretty good. Only ones there.
Checked out a little night life but way too early [11pm] for activity. Even Andele's was nearly empty! Now that's bad. But the donkey was ready for its entrance. Hmmm.
Some were up and off on Diana's cruise, every Thursday, 65 USD but all-you-can-eat and drink, first to the north, then down to the south for swimming and snorkeling. A full day, so please bring some high number lotion and a hat or visor! I ate at [new ownership] Tasca de Mama Dolores. Had taco salad [48p] full of all the usual goodies. They also have hamburgers, sandwiches, breakfast, outdoor cafe seating. Laid back and easy, on Olas Altas. Had to stop at Pie in the Sky for a butter pecan ice cream [Blue Bell] so that my waist will not shrink away to absolutely nothing!
We had the two live chats here and set off for Ernesto's for their Thursday night all-you-can-eat pork rib special [how can one stay thin here? Or lose weight, I should say...jog 20 miles per day?]. Leo had the pollo al la naranja, tender chicken a light brown orange sauce, delightful. We shared one of the all-time best tortilla soups, medium bowl for 50p, enough starter for three! Down home and funky may describe this dirt floor spot with white plastic chairs. Stayed on at El Dorado for lodging, a fav of many regular visitors. Great staff, OT/SS location, rooms, views, restaurant downstairs with nightly musica.
I bussed to Sam's Club to meet a pal and the two of us checked out her Paradise Village condo and headed north to Bucerias. Such a cool town with fine beach and eateries. Sandria's is rather Californian Continental Creative [all housemade]
decorated with her artwork. Since my companion had lunch there the day before, we checked Mark's, open nightly, International upscale menu and spot, and then decided on Meson Bay for an authentic Mexican mainly seafood hangout right on the blue bay! What a day, with boats, pelicans, children playing in the sand, superb food and the best to me were the homemade really thin flour tortillas. A return spot for sure! Headed also for fun to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle and Punta Mita.
Later met up with a large Internet gathering at Cuatos y Cuetos on Playa Los Muertos for a sunset drink and we were off to Archie's Wok once again. D'Rachael was there performing softly on flute, harp and with vocal as we savored the fine cuisine of Thai, Chinese and Filipino. Cindy stopped by after her dinner, but the place is pretty much run in the front of the house by gorgeous daughter and in the kitchen chef son who returned after schooling in Guadalajara. For those who do not know, Archie was director John Huston's personal chef up until the latter's death and we lost Archie, too, so Cindy has maintained this top notch spot not to be missed. We are up to Saturday now.
Note: The Beach Club [Green Chairs] has live music on stage Sat. and Sun. 3:30 - 6pm during the summer, more in the high season. This is now called the Second Season. Also new NYPV is hopping in its 6th week and features dancing to techno music amid smashing bodies.
Got up at beautiful Hotel Mercurio and had their 'included' cafe, rolls, fruit, juice by the pool. Owner Paul, manager Carlos and later writer/photog Paco joined us for lots of chatting about new and old Vallarta. They have big plans for remodeling, so the next time you are there, expect some super changes and quite a few larger rooms! Their staff is so attentive and warm. Recommended.
Decided upon Cafe San Angel for a creative sandwich. Split a prosciutto bruschetta and a smoked salmon cream cheese on tender baguettes. Love sitting outside on the sidewalk people-watching, that is until a tour bus driver decided he could make the curve and wedged a side window against their awning support. Crash, splinter, Eeek! Took some pix just in case the owner had any problem with proof. Policia and insurance reps were there shortly and we returned to our lunch and then on our way.
La Palapa was having a Mexican Mother's Day on the 9th, so we joined their fine staff and families on the rooftop for dancing, drinks and grilled comida. Fiesta grande.
I had my fill of activity and needed a well-earned rest, so stayed in after we checked into Miguel's. Good view, all glass sliding doors, overhead fan, good shower. Felipe manages this fine location, very central, but watch out for those steps. Do a little gym-toning before a stay.
Fidel drove all of us down the coast, Highway 200, past Conchas Chinas, Costa Vida, Garza Blanca, Camino Real, past Mismaloya, to El Eden, site of The Predator movie filming, complete with a demolished helicopter. Canopy Tour is offered here, an option until I viewed just how high in the air those cables are! Ouch. Tell me all about it. Jungle atmosphere for lunch and river swimming on smooth rocks. Sought out the oft-mentioned La Chosa de Tono, Tree House, 16 year old operation with all the family employed cooking and serving. Check this spot out. No menu, so listen carefully and view the tray of selections. We shared quesadillas and then huachinango done two ways, one grilled and one whole, both with garlic butter and veggies, mashed potatoes [there they are again!], tortillas. Delicious! Had a great time there...one of those places you do not want to leave as the experience will end until the next time.
Next stop, Garza Blanca Villas, never been to before. We snagged a tiny 3 BR 3 BA two story penthouse condo with private pool and a small 180 degree view of Vallarta and all the Bahia de Banderas. Forced ourselves to watch another lousy sunset in Paradise. Sigh. Quite a spectacular property. Thanks, John. No restaurants within walking distance, so from the phone book, located one place offering delivery. Domino's Pizza. Argh, I said it. OK< it was not 1/2 bad and we were famished. There is always mañana.
After a grand night in the Garza Blanca villa, we said adios and had the taxi take us right into OldTown/SouthSide. My heart beat faster as I once again reunited with my full soul amidst the shops, people, cafes, familiar sights. We went right to Planeta Vegetariano, which has had wide mention on various message boards and been on my To Go List for a couple years. Up a number of steps on Iturbide from the Guadalupe Church in Centro, sits the charming cozy cafe with bright Mexican colorful art work everywhere. The breakfast buffet is 45 pesos, all-you-can-eat and the lunch and dinner are 65p, bargain in anyone's book.
There is a full array of fruits, salads, juices, vegetables and entrees, all made from only plants, so do not look for meat, fish or dairy. Wonderful herbs and spice blends are used in the kitchen. We ate our fill and talked with the manager for a long time.
Then, on to Playa Bonita, right next door to the Blue Chairs. We secured a beautiful 3BR, 3BA penthouse with a spiral staircase up to the roof with a small pool and sitting area for sunset viewing. Almost reachable by fingertips is the rooftop happy hour and pool of the neighbors. 360 degree view, but there were some swarming bees so we did not sit up there. 1000 sq ft common area with a huge wrap-around balcony. Great for three couples, or a group of friends who are not in the party mood, as most units are owner-occupied and there is little tolerance for noise. Guests are screened at the front desk.
Weather for May continued to be moderate with a constant breeze off the bay to cool down from the mid-80Fs. Not much in the way of clouds for impressive reflected sunsets, but the view was still breathtaking.
Pablo came over with his table for massages, using very strong hands for depth and relief. Reiki, Shiatzu, Swedish, Therapeutic, Reflexology, Manipulation. Start your vacation with a relaxing massage. He's great and very professional.
pablomassage@hotmail.com
223-1907
Hi Pablo, good work, fine man! Tell him Gary sent you.
All of us later headed out for Pitillal for dinner at The Asadero but it was Mexican Mother's Day and the zocolo was packed with every taco stand in town, crowds of families, and a loud speaker system. Decided to look elsewhere, but everything was closed. Ended up on the Malecón and almost ate at Paradise Burger [new ownership of Cheeseburger in Paradise, the spot who had a web cam until Kenna] but the steps were too much to handle for one of us so soon after the layers of steps at Garza Blanca, so we chose California Buffet, a Denny's type. Best choice was the pozole, very rich and homemade. They offer a ton of food and was only about 80p.
One in our party decided that steps and walking must be kept at a minimum and one ankle needed rest, so we had to forego a stopover at Casa Isabel with Brenda. I was going to go solo, but after some discussion, plans will be made upon my return this October.
Back to the PV Cafe on Olas Altas to get my Internet fix. Their summer offer is only 150p for 10 hours, so hard to beat that! Banks have dropped to 11.25-11.30p per USD. Sometimes there is a problem staying online and also the IPod wireless service is hit and miss, maybe depending upon how far you are to the antenna, but it is the wave of the future. Anybody want to buy me a laptop?
I went solo walking all around OldTown on Tuesday. Love that 24 hour Farmacia Guadalajara, with better prices for many prescriptions than the US. Wanted to eat at the middle taco stand adjacent to their parking lot, called the Little Ant [in Spanish] but they do not open until 4-5pm. So, I visited another small spot from my To Go List, Dianita's. Comida Corrida...learned something new, means Fast Food! Get this, for 40p you choose one of 10 entrees which come with a soup from a choice of three, rice, beans, warm tortillas and a pitcher of agua of the day. I opted for Lomo Chipotle [pork loin filets], Tortilla Soup and Horchata. How you can leave hungry, I do not know. Do not be surprised if another person or couple joins you at your table...just smile and say Hola!
Took a slow stroll through the World of Glass [Mundo de Cristal] and their sister World of Tile. What a place to pick up items for your casa or gifts for loved ones. They no longer 'fire' there, only in Tlaquepaque. Very beautiful...check it out if you have not already. Talavera and opaque colored glasses are my faves, at fair prices. They ship, too.
OK, relief is in sight. This is the final diary page to be shared. Ah, the latest trip had to come to an end but memories abound from it and will never be forgotten!
With two co-members here, we rendezvoused at Dasan's, whose owner is also a member here, but we had planned to go there beforehand as so many people had lofty praises for the spot. We shared a lot of items to get a good grasp of his Indian cuisine. Nan is needed always, a famous bread, with spicy dipping sauces. We shared curries of chicken and lamb, plentiful dishes of vegetables, some spicier than others. Mango lassi was the drink of choice by all, made with fruit so fresh it almost jumped from the glass. I could make a meal of the thick white smoothie alone! We missed Dasan, but his capable assistant led us through the menu and assisted in choices so that everyone had a part in the decisions. When you get that hanker, go and say Hi to Dasan and sample the fine food in a casual atmosphere. We all are computer nuts so went to the PV Cafe [open until 2am when we are literally kicked out!] and chatted about Puerto Vallarta, our lives and plans ahead. Time is flyyyyyyying!
My next day trip to the pool to burn off a few calories was interrupted by Rodrigo the masseur who was to chat about his business and need for some PR, when we decided he would give me an aromatherapy spiritual massage. He is a gentle old soul with a spirit dating to his ancestors and their methods of herbs, flowers, woods, spices and oils for detoxification and stress relief, restoring the harmony and balance. No email address yet, but call him at 22-33729, Angeluz Therapeutic Massage. Tell him Gary sent you.
After a long trek through Conchas Chinas and Alta Vista, Fidel and we stopped at a longtime taco stand named Brother-in-law [in Spanish] across from Cafe San Angel. It is family run and always maintains its quality and therefore their following. With Jamaica drink, the cost per person was around 30p. Exhausted from the long time out, I needed some time to rest and ready myself for the grand finale. But, soon we were off to a B & B called Hacienda Mosaica, Calle Milan 274, run by artist David Leonard. [www.haciendamosaica.com] One must see the place to believe it. Huge A/C rooms with baths and am breakfast, outdoor area with pool, sitting, fruit trees [mangoes are loaded right now] and paths from place to place. Plans are in the future for cooking classes and art studio work. It is fascinating, as is Blanca, the white Cockatoo.
Oh, I omitted a fine place we stopped at which was torn up a bit for a filming, named Villa Leonarda, Guerrero 414 Centro, run by owner Sergio Toledano. The apartments are being renovated. It sits on Rio Cuale in Gringo Gulch. He is the godson of 'one and only' Elizabeth Taylor and shared old photos of his first communion, sails on the
Burton's yacht, and parties with the Hollywood glitterati. He was well-familiar of my times staying nearby at Casa Juanita, at that time owned by Phil and Jane Ober, who shared Burton's pool, opposite Taylor's casa gifted by Burton called Casa Kimberley, part B & B, part museum open to the public, right by their famous lovers' bridge.
Last call...Cafe Bohemio, run by two guys from Palm Springs and San Francisco, CA. Chris and Sol. They have built their faithful clientele in a little over a year and I was one of their first diners. They had been gone back to the States for a visit, so when the doors opened, the pans flew, the people smiled and cried! We started with a Matzo Ball soup, followed by Cherry Cola ribs and coconut shrimp with spicy mango sauce. A decadent brownie and a flaming custard finished the long experience, under the trees, with the bay breezes gentle from a block away. Aah. Laptop shut down for the evening and a quiet lounging on the balcony/patio as the stars twinkled their farewells, temporary as they may be.
Gary
San Francisco, CA. and Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco
Am updating my restaurant guide. For free copy by email, write me. Any ??? about PV/my trips/experiences, write me anytime.
garyrbeck1@yahoo.com
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Puerto_Vallarta_Gay_Travel
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Puerto_Vallarta_OldTown_SouthSide